Stop by WWD today, and you will learn that there are two new fragrance launches from the world of fashion and Hollywood. Roger Vivier, the French shoemaker, will introduce five signature scents for women - to be sold at the company's boutiques, starting this fall. WWD quoted Vivier brand ambassador Inès de la Fressange as saying, "Luxury is about not having to choose." That's one way of looking at it, I guess. Another way - from my perspective - would be, "Luxury is about having the best and only the best."Each of the five Roger Vivier fragrances will highlight one key ingredient – iris, neroli, rose, sandalwood, or amber (how original!). There's no word on whether the scents will make their way to the United States.
Another fashion house, another fragrance introduction. What shouldn't be surprising, but is, is the report that Bruce Willis is joining the bandwagon by introducing a signature "tough guy" collection for men. An eau de parfum (I find the terms "eau de parfum" and "tough guy" incongruous), hair and body wash, deodorant spray, and after-shave balm comprise the collection. The scent is gray in color and features notes of grapefruit, pepper, and vetiver. That blend sounds nice. I wonder if Bruce will be wearing it. The debut will be in Germany.
As each new fragrance introduction rolls out, I wonder how many the world can support. How many of each year's new fragrance introductions are unique, meriting introduction because they are special, rather than a psychological connection to the "name" associated with the scent. How many people buy fragrance because they want something from a brand, but can't afford the brand's iconic items? Do women buy celebrity scents because they want the aura of the celebrity and believe she actually created the fragrance? How many new fragrance introductions flame out, leaving the remaining stock to the discount market?
There are market research answers to most of these questions, so you have to wonder, "Why?"
Photo courtesy of WWD, which got it from Roger Vivier
Roger Vivier is a very famous and gifted shoemaker. He worked with French couturiers but never, never had anything to do with perfumes! I guess selling R.V Fragrances is just a way to reach customers who simply can't afford buying his shoes (very, very expensive) but might be happy knowing they can afford to buy a bottle of perfume signed RV and made by ...absolutely anybody! To all your questions I think the answer could be : "almost all of them" especially for the new ones. That's why Dior, Givenchy, Saint Laurent (mostly couturiers) issue so many fragrances, they sell them more than anything else and get huge benefits from them. Here particularly obvious since Bernard Arnaud "grabbed" Dior, Givenchy, Céline, Kenzo, Guerlain, Christian Lacroix, Aqua di Parma etc..etc..maybe Roger Vivier too (I'll have to check!)
ReplyDeleteI guess the RV fragrances will make their way to the USA : if they are sold in his shops, there are so few of them in France that there won't be many sales, so I would say in all his shops all around the world:-)
ReplyDeleteClarisse,
ReplyDeleteYou hit the nail on the head! I just don't understand how a fragrance can substitute for a fab pair of shoes. :) I guess there are a lot of name-droppers out there.
We know how profitable the fragrance market is. I like to buy fragrances because they are special, though, not for their name. I know that's true for you too!
Hi Charlestongirl
ReplyDeleteI have checked and Roger Vivier belongs to Diego della Valle who owns Tods; the designer is Bruno Frisoni (they are hoping to develop in Asia, Russia etc..and that's how selling fragrances helps them! I can't explain why: I am like you, if I love a pair of shoes I can't afford, buying a bottle of fragrance from the same shop won't help me!!!!
Wow, Clarisse, that's really interesting. You a detective? :)
ReplyDelete:-))))I just wanted to know if the brand belonged to the Bernard Arnaud group and it does not (but it belongs to an Italian important one!!)
ReplyDeleteIf his fragrances are anything like his shoes, Roger Vivier's EDPs are bound to be classics!
ReplyDeleteHi, New London,
ReplyDeleteHope so! I set a pretty high bar for new fragrances, but I'll be trying to get my hands on the rose one to have a whiff. :)
Fabulous perfumes usually I not associated with a celebrity name. I am referring here to Perfumer Extraordinaire SERGE LUTENS (see Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido in Paris, exclusive boutique of Perfumer Serge Lutens). Only a select few know of his exquisite scents that you will not find anywere (he has a line at Bergdorf but not the same exclusive one you find in Paris..), Maybe ROGER VIVIER hired his famous nose to create the ROGER VIVIER scents... in any case as Marylin Monroe said "I am not naked I am wearing Chanel no 5!), PERFUME is to the senses a exquisite Luxury (if you stay away from the Huge commercial brands!). All that to say I will try to smell that New ROGER VIVIER scent and decide if it is truly unique!
ReplyDelete