YSL Oriental Collection

Yves Saint Laurent said, "The greatest perfumes are those that take you on the most beautiful journeys." The YSL Oriental Collection offers an invitation to an extraordinary journey through oriental splendor, embodied in a collection of four fragrances with "noble and sophisticated ingredients."

Step inside the secrets of an oriental palace. A place of mystery and intrigue, an expression of the most extreme passions.  Behind the doors of the palace, in the obscure clarity diffused by the moucharabiehs, lies the theater for unbridled passions, a stage for the conquest of bodies and minds. Each of the four new fragrances opens into the finest rooms of this palace, staging women and men unveiling conflicting sentiments.

Majestic Rose Eau de Parfum, a woody floral, reveals the magnetic mystery of a rose. It captures depth with a smoky, woody accord. The perfumer was Alberto Morillas. The top notes that vibrate freshness release an animalic leathery touch of papyrus essence illuminated by the freshness of bergamot and raspberry accords. The heart notes of may rose absolute are warmed by spicy saffron accord. Tobacco facets of the guaiac wood enhance the floral texture. Base notes of intense woods are created by oud wood accord blended with the smoked guaiac wood essence, enveloped by vanilla for its warm and captivating tones.

Noble Leather Eau de Parfum offers an encounter between raw sensuality of leather accord and the softness of tobacco and dried fruits. The perfumer was Julie Massé. Aromatic freshness characterizes the top notes of fuzzy mandarin essence combined with violet leaves and saffron accords. The notes create a warm leathery effect. The intense leather heart notes are softened by an addictive tobacco-dried fruits accord. The base notes are comprised of an ambery woody accord mingled with patchouli (the kiss of death for me) and vanilla absolute for a deeply oriental signature.

Supreme Bouquet Eau de Parfum is a floral amber - one I should love because it's a white flower fragrance soothed by amber woods. The perfumer was Dominique Ropion. The top notes offer luminous freshness with an opening of sparking fruit zests of bergamot essence, with a spicy touch of pink pepper and tangy pear accord. The opulent floral heart notes unfold with the richness of white flowers, a tribute to tuberose, Sambac jasmine, and ylang essence. The woody base notes include amber and patchouli. I am dead sure that if it weren't for the patch, I would purchase Supreme Bouquet.

Splendid Wood Eau de Parfum is a woody, spicy fragrance with the depth of oriental wood lit up by cardamon and incense. The perfumers were Marie Salamagne and Amandine Marie. The spicy, fresh top notes offer cardemon highlighted by saffron and incense. The heart notes provide a floral caress of Sambac jasmine contrasted by the green and fresh character of rose buds and artemesia notes. Mysterious wood base notes build a magnetic intensity around the resinous - almost animalic - facets of oud and the dry and soft character of cedarwood. Cypriol, with its leathery, smoky signature, provides a final touch to this fascinating perfume, which I have noted smells amazing on men.

These are unusual fragrances, not for the faint of heart. They are traditional orientals, created to perpetuate the mystery of oriental scents with the use of today's popular ingredients, such as oud and spices. Each is $250 and currently available from YSL and Saks Fifth Avenue. I would be purchasing Supreme Bouquet if the perfumer had not included my most despised base note, patchouli. Don't let my peculiarities stop you. If you are an oriental fragrance guy or gal, you will find these new fragrances must-tries.

Photo courtesy of YSL