Le Labo Tubereuse 40

Anyone who loves Le Labo and loves tuberose would naturally be intrigued by Tubereuse 40 (around $300, if I remember correctly). My quest for my bottle earlier this year was epic. I had ordered and loved other Le Labo fragrances, and I really wanted to try Tubereuse 40. It's a Le Labo city exclusive, meaning that the only place you can purchase it is in the boutique in its city. Le Labo will not mail it; you must go to its city to buy it. Le Labo is a New York exclusive.

@Glowyjoeybunny, who lives in New York, went to the boutique, hoping to get a sample for me. She was told there were no samples. I really couldn't believe it, so I called the Le Labo boutique manager, who kindly explained that since they make their bottles of fragrances by blending the individual ingredients "on the spot" to fill an order, and since there are 40 different notes in Tubereuse 40, it would be impossible to create a little sample vial of it. He said that they usually end up with samples when they have a little bit left over from making up an order, but unfortunately they didn't have any at the time. That made sense. Joey did send me some other samples, and one in particular, Neroli 36, led to a recent purchase.

Then I tried to talk the manager into shipping one to me. It was a no-go. He patiently explained that the city exclusives were "really exclusive" to the city. You had to visit to buy them - otherwise they wouldn't be exclusive at all. He was apologetic, but firm, in telling me I had to visit New York to get it. There I was, still recovering from knee surgery, knowing I wasn't going to take the train to New York any time soon, but really wanting that perfume. Once someone tells me I can't have something, I seem to want it even more.

Before I go further, I will tell you that all of Le Labo's city exclusives will be available in November from Le Labo and LuckyScent, and you can order samples now to prepare. Of course, I didn't know that at the time. He probably didn't either. I went up to my favorite flower shop and bought some tuberose stems. I was distraught.
I hate asking people to do things for me, but I did. I asked my beautiful friend Gaia, The Non-Blonde, to pick one up for me the next time she went near the boutique. She bought one, and she shipped it to me. I was one happy gal! I had it - finally. Did it meet my expectations?

Absolutely yes - and more. Before I had it in my hands, the boutique manager and also a sweet gal at LuckyScent had told me that, despite its name, the fragrance wasn't a traditional tuberose fragrance - normally an intoxicating, sweet white floral, with a characteristic tuberose note and often sultry-heavy. Tuberose has a secondary role in Tubereuse 40. Le Labo does that. A name won't necessarily describe the predominant note in the scent. So, what I was expecting was a light citrus with a white floral accent. The manager had told me to imagine a light, breezy, fragrant citrus grove. The breeze blows in a suggestion of tuberose. You know it has passed by your nose, but it's fleeting. It was a good description. Here's how Le Labo describes it, slightly edited.

The Tubereuse 40, like most of our other scents, barely deserves its name. It is of course full of tubereuse (absolute and nothing less), but what hits you from the get-go is a wave of bergamot, tangerine, and orange flower that yields that surprising “Eau de Cologne” effect (despite its concentration of 30% which transforms this perfume into an extract). The first pschitt is hence pure well-being. The Tubereuse 40 then slowly develops to the woody/floral heart that gives it unique character and comfort. You smell the white florals where the tuberose finally has its say, and the woods (cedar and sandalwood) sing along with oak moss, musks, and ambrette absolute to rock you into a state of intensity, pureness, and bliss. As long as there is light, there is life. As long as there is NY, there will be Tubereuse 40.

The fragrance, according to LuckyScent has notes of ambrette absolute, bergamot, cedar, jasmin absolute, orange blossom absolute, mimosa absolute, oak moss absolute, petit grain, centifolis rose, and tuberose absolute. It's drop-dead gorgeous. Not overly sweet, to me, it's a light, sparkling citrus-floral blend. It's alive, with the joy of many of my favorite notes combined in a way that's unique. If any note takes center stage, it's orange blossom. I know I need a second bottle. Perhaps I'll order it in November, when I won't have to travel to get it (or send a friend out of her way).

Not long ago, I was wearing Tubereuse 40 at Neiman Marcus. A visitor from Guerlain (someone who knows and sells fragrances) complimented me on my fragrance. He smelled it, even though I couldn't (our noses often grow accustomed to a scent during the first hour of wear). I was delighted - not only by the compliment, but also that it came from a fragrance guru. Somehow that validated my love for it.

The Non-Blonde has been featuring the Le Labo city exclusives recently to help you prepare for the golden month when you can obtain them with a simple online order. She hooked me with Aldehyde 44. I received my sample this week, and I'm counting the days until I can order it.

You can purchase Le Labo fragrances in North America at Le Labo boutiques, online, and at LuckyScent - even the city exclusives in November only.

Photo courtesy of LuckyScent

Le Labo Jasmin 17 Eau de Parfum

When I purchased my Le Labo Fleur d'Oranger early in June, I also ordered Jasmin 17 ($58 to $700). Mixed for me, with "Best Things in Beauty" on the label, along with its date of origination and the name of the individual who mixed the compound, the utilitarian bottle only hinted at the soft, creamy fragrance I would discover with Jasmin 17.

I had ordered both scents from Le Labo, reading key ingredient lists, trying to guess through the online print how they might smell. The first I tried was Fleur d'Oranger, and I was over the moon. I think I wore it every day the first week I had it. Jasmin 17 was the second I tried. I'll admit, I was surprised at first. I had expected a more typical jasmine fragrance - a voluptuous white flower, heady and sensuous. What I smelled was entirely different. With its heavy emphasis on vanilla, I had discovered jasmine ice cream in a fragrance. It took me a day or two to get over the surprise and begin to appreciate this soft fragrance for what it is, not what I had expected.

Le Labo is clear that this natural jasmine is the "floral perfume par excellence, and was created as a modern alternative to the old-fashioned traditional floral signatures. Its short formula gives it such a distinctive character that once you wear it, you’ll never forget it."

A unique floral impact whose sensuality and femininity is amplified by a majestically harmonious chord of musk, sandalwood, and vanilla. We refuse all responsibility for any havoc this perfume might create in your circle of male friends.

I'm sure they're right, given men's well-known attraction to vanilla. The vanilla doesn't make Jasmin 17 smell like a cupcake, though, or worse one of those cheap, synthetic vanilla fragrances peddled at malls. To me, Jasmin 17 is a creamy, soft vanilla scent with a floral surprise. It's definitely addictive. With no sharp edges, it makes me smell naturally delicious.

Jasmin 17, was created for Le Labo by Maurice Roucel and is guaranteed to make you feel unabashedly pretty! The number in the title of all Le Labo perfumes refers to the number of ingredients in the formula. At 17, this one smells beautifully youthful - and uncomplicated. The radiant simplicity of the blend is what attracts me to Jasmin 17 the most. The pairing of vanilla with a naturally honeyed jasmine undertone, is the proof to me that I can appreciate vanilla as a lead character - an unanticipated discovery. The playful nature of the blend is enhanced by sandalwood and musk. It's charming.

LuckyScent lists eight of the 17 notes as neroli, bigarade, jasmine, orange flower, amber, musk, sandalwood, and vanilla. With some of my favorites in the mix, it's no wonder I love it.

Now I've become something of a Le Labo fanatic. I've talked to the boutique in New York City about Tubereuse 40 (so special that there are no samples available, they won't ship, and I must rely on a friend to buy one and ship it to me). Glowyjoeybunny on Twitter kindly got me samples that were pre-prepared and mailed them to me. I can't wait to tell you about them. I've also discussed these wonderful fragrances with a gal at LuckyScent who used to work at the Le Labo boutique in Los Angeles. I can't get enough of these artistic fragrances. I suspect that I'll have six or seven more by the time we roll into 2012.

You can find Le Labo fragrances, body lotions, massage oils, home fragrances, and candles at Le Labo and LuckyScent. I'm not sure I'll last long before ordering a Figue candle and another Eau de Parfum or two.

Photos courtesy of LuckyScent and applemint.com

Le Labo Fleur d'Oranger 27 Eau de Parfum

From the quirky, old-time photos on the Le Labo Web site to the nature of their hand-blended fragrances, it's clear that Le Labo is a fragrance maven's company. I was delighted to stumble upon Le Labo - and that's literally how I discovered them.

I am woefully behind on reading the fragrance blogs. I need to create more hours in the day to get cracking! There are so many great ones. I read The Non-Blonde every day, and each week, Gaia delves into fragrances that are noteworthy - and in some cases virtually unobtainable. Recently, I've "hooked up" with some excellent bloggers on Twitter, and I need to snatch some time to read their archives. I learn so much about fragrances by reading (and sniffing).

I do know my own tastes, which a fragrance snob would consider rather elementary, I fear. I'm OK with that, even though I pine to join the club of those who can translate scents into words and write about those scents so well that the fragrances seem to waft off the pages - or computer display. Maybe some day. In the meantime, I tell you about fragrances I love, and I've got a new-to-me one I adore: Fleur d'Oranger 27 Eau de Parfum ($58 to $700).

If you are unfamiliar with Le Labo, here's some enticing information from their Web site.

Le Labo aims to have perfume enthusiasts better understand the time-honored art of perfume making, to hone their sense of smell and develop their olfactory “palette” so that they too can distinguish what makes up a fine perfume. Knowledge, in perfumery as in everything else, is essential to free choice. Otherwise, we’re condemned to remain in the herd of consumers manipulated by the latest in advertising, fashion trends, and gadgetry.

Le Labo’s exclusive training tools will help you to learn more, refine your olfactory buds, and enable you to choose your perfumes with a true expert’s savoir-faire and discernment. Le Labo believes that it is about time that we open our eyes, breathe in deeply, and take in all that life has to offer.

Each of the Le Labo perfumes (fragrances) is built around a primary natural essence that comes directly from Grasse, France’s “perfume capital.” Bergamot, rose, vetiver, neroli, orange blossom, patchouli, iris, ambrette, jasmine, and labdanum, each of these essences form the base of a composition. The names of the perfumes provide a valuable clue on how they are formulated. Based on the codes that perfumers use to identify their perfume trials, the perfumes are named after their principal essence and the number of ingredients combined to make them. For example, FLEUR d’ORANGER 27 indicates that the perfume is made up of a total of 27 ingredients, with the natural orange blossom from Grasse as its principal essence.

Describing our perfumes in words seems to be an absolute must and totally useless at the same time. On a street in New York City’s Chelsea, a sign was recently posted that spelled out in capital letters: “EXPLAINING KILLS ART.” You could say exactly the same thing about perfume. Above all, you have to smell and feel it. Choosing your perfume by reading an olfactory description is like asking for someone’s resume before falling in love. But until the Internet allows us to smell online, we have found nothing better than words to "explain" our scents.

Their philosophy made me question my belief that the best fragrance bloggers can capture the essence of a fragrance. I still believe they can, but I also understand Le Labo's philosophy that to smell is to know.

Orange blossom is one of my all-time favorite fragrance notes. I was excited to see that Le Labo had a fragrance to fuel my addiction to the fragrant white flower.

Fleur d'Oranger is a natural, "extremely rare orange blossom that took over three years to compose. Its innate nobility is enhanced by fresh floral and lemony notes, rounded out by musk and the succulent, sunny touches of bergamot, petit grain, and lemon."¹ That description from Le Labo was all it took for me to order. I expected a sweet orange flower fragrance with a bit or "rawness" provided by the citrus. When Fleur d'Oranger arrived, had it been in the old days before my body rebelled, I would have done cartwheels. As it was, I just left my nose on my arm for hours. Now it's been there for days.

I purchased the half-ounce size for $58, knowing I could go back for more if I liked it. As soon as my credit card turns over for the month (probably in a grave), I will be buying more Fleur d'Oranger. It's that special! I may never be able to retire, but I'll be one great-smelling little old lady - wherever I'm working.

My Fleur d'Oranger arrived in a spray bottle packed nicely in a utilitarian/artsy cardboard box. Both the bottle and the box have a custom label! They custom made the bottle for me. All of their fragrances are freshly made by hand - unbelievably impressive. The bottle has a printed label that says it was compounded in Nolita by Clio for Best Things in Beauty and will be fresh until May 29, 2012. Maybe my next purchase won't be the $700, 16.9-ounce size, which I have considered, but rather the $220 size - one I can probably use up in a year. On the bottom of the bottle, there is a hand-printed label that appears to read, "F027, ICUT, 5/19." So classy!

In a few more words, Fleur d'Oranger is an elegant, fresh, and green orange flower for those who want their scent to be as delightful at its conclusion as it was during its first hour. Some will find that boring; I love it. I dislike fragrances that have multiple personalities, with an opening personality that delights me, but a closing personality that terrorizes my nose. Fleur d'Oranger is suitably light for refreshing day wear. I imagine that men would find it as compelling as women - there's a bit of a unisex quality to the scent. It reminds me of my L'Artisan limited-edition Fleur d'Oranger fragrances, so dear that I ordered multiples of each vintage.

Le Labo has a sampling program. Even the samples are hand blended! Check out their Web site for information. I am going to be trying several more of them - very soon. I definitely want to try Neroli 36. I'd really love to try Tubereuse 40, but it's only available in the New York boutique. In the near future, I'll tell you about the other Le Labo fragrance I ordered when I bought Fleur d'Oranger.

You can also find Le Labo fragrances at LuckyScent. I ordered from Le Labo because New York is closer to me. I knew I would receive my fragrances more quickly.

¹LuckyScent's description is slightly different: "The zesty aspect of orange blossom is underscored by the sunny, sparkly bergamot, petitgrain, and grapefruit. The fragile beauty of snow-white blossoms is made even more dazzling when contrasted with the verdancy of vetiver and the dark richness of amber and musk."

Photos by Le Labo and LuckyScent