Thursday, April 18, 2013

The Fragrance Foundation's 2013 Awards in France

Just as we have the Fragrance Foundation Awards in the United States to recognize the best new fragrance introductions of the past year, the Fragrance Foundation France presents annual awards. At the event hosted by Sabine Chabbert, Associate Director of the Fragrance Foundation France, and Thomas Misrachi, BFM TV journalist, nine perfumes and one brand were awarded 14 prizes on April 11.

All fragrances in the categories selective distribution and broad distribution were evaluated by a jury consisting of perfume professionals, members of the Fragrance Foundation, and other experts (consultants, journalists, and bloggers). The public also had the opportunity to cast their votes on the Internet. Since I published the U.S. Fragrance Foundation awards, I thought you might be interested in what our French friends are celebrating.

Among the 14 prizes, which honored the creativity and innovation in the perfume industry, four prizes went to La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain and two to Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf in selective distribution. At the end of the evening, the audience, consisting of professionals and the media, determined a winner in the category Prix du Parfum Mythique. This category includes perfumes that were released at least 20 years ago and still are among the top 30 fragrances sold in France.

The Prix du Parfum Mythique 2013
The winner in this category is Shalimar by Guerlain, which emerged from 15 nominated historical fragrances as the winner. While Shalimar is a bit heavy and spicy for my tastes, I certainly understand its selection. Shalimar is a worldwide classic, worn by men and women who appreciate its oriental beauty.

Best Women’s Fragrance
Just like Elie Saab Le Parfum (BPI) in 2012, this year also saw one perfume that won all prizes (woman's fragrance of the year, best advertising communication, and best design) in the category women's fragrance selective distribution: La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain (LVMH), created by Thierry Wasser from Guerlain. The television commercial, accompanied by mystical music from Nancy Sinatra, was created by the Agency Küntzel + Deygas.

With 21.4% of all expert votes and 26% of the audience votes, La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain was a clear winner. With 43% of all votes in the category advertising communication, the winner was particularly clear. The classic bottle with modern elements earned 17.2% of the votes for best design. "This fragrance prevailed clearly among the jury and the audience," said Sabine Chabbert.

Other Winners
  • Best women's fragrance in broad distribution is VIP pour Elle by Playboy (Coty Beauty) from International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). All I can say is, "Wow, I've never heard of it." That's not the only one I don't know.
  • As the best women's fragrance marketed under its own name, So Elixir Purple by Yves Rocher, created by Marie Salamagne (Firmenich), was selected.
  • Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf (L'Oréal Luxe), designed by Olivier Polge from IFF, received two prizes: one for best men's fragrance and one for best design.
  • Only The Brave Tattoo by Diesel (L'Oréal Luxe), created by Honorine Blanc and Alberto Morillas from Firmenich, won the audience award with 13% of the votes.
  • Best advertising communication is Kenzo Homme Sport by Kenzo (LVMH).
  • Best perfume in broad distribution is The Essence by David Beckham (Coty Beauty) from IFF.
  • Best men’s fragrance, marketed under its own name, is L'Eau Universelle of L'Occitane, a collaboration with the perfume creator Mathieu Nardin from Robertet.
  • Best perfume in selective distribution is Volutes by Diptyque. The tobacco-honey-scent was inspired by a long journey between Marseille and Saigon taken by of one of the creators of Diptyque and was composed by Fabrice Pellegrin, perfume creator from Firmenich.
  • Best concept was awarded to Olfactive Studio.
The award to Olfactive Studio excited me. Céline Verleure is the creator of a new niche perfumery line that launched in 2011. Céline has extensive experience in the perfume industry, and she launched a blog about the fragrances yet to be made, looking for inspiration and ideas from her readers. Céline is a member of a Facebook group to which I contribute, and she's not only creative, she's warm and thoughtful.

Olfactive Studio line was born (source: Fragrantica) with Céline's blog. Olfactive Studio is a blend of modern art photography and the world of perfumes. Both these medias capture a moment and its atmosphere. It is “an encounter between contemporary artistic photography and perfumery; between the eye and the nose…It is at the crossroads of a photographic studio and a perfume design studio.”

The inspiration for the first three perfumes from her five-fragrance collection, topics of self-portrait, dark chamber, and still life, were transformed into the fragrances Autoportrait, Chambre Noire, and Still Life. Céline conceived the names of the perfumes first, then gave freedom to three different photographers to showcase their interpretation of the fragrances, with their images serving as inspirations for the perfumers who created the compositions.

The Olfactive Studio line just launched at Bergdorf Goodman, which will bring well-deserved attention in the United States to Céline's brand - once the exclusive domain of pefumistas who scour the world for the best new fragrances. If you'd like to get to know Olfactive Studio, "like" the Facebook page and join the journey.

Photos courtesy of the Beautypress, the Fragrance Foundation, Guerlain, and Olfactive Studio


lovethescents said...

Surprised La Petite Robe Noir is top seller. Not that I loved the original, it was certainly more interesting and more wearable than this newer development!

Charleston Girl said...

Hi Lovethescents,

I like it.

lovethescents said...

Yes, you might like it, but a top seller? Surprising! Must be the marketing ;-)

Evelyn said...

Mm I was heavily sprayed with La Petite Robe Noir by a Guerlain rep at the pop up shop at Bloomingdales. I smelled very strongly of berries for the longest time while I waited for some other scent to make itself known. Not much luck. lol I'm not really sold on it despite the PR push.

Paula said...

I am very surprised that Le Petite Noir won top prize. It seems like a cheap imitation of one of Guerlain's L'art et le Metier creations.

TRy going on a date with this perfume ...your date will think you smoked to death.